Fused - Fused jacket is a garment that’s made by bonding together two or more layers of fabric with a heat-activated adhesive material. The adhesive material is usually made from synthetic fibers, and it’s applied to the backside of the fabric to create a stiff, firm finish. This type of suit is called “fused” because the layers of fabric are fused together with the adhesive material.
Advantages:
Lowest production cost
Stable form - easy to control in production
Faster turnaround time
Recommended for simple, commercial models or basic collections.
Limitations:
A stiffer visual effect
Less airiness and plasticity of the structure
Glued inserts may become loose over time (bubble effect), especially in humid climates.
Limited lifespan
Half Canvas - Half Canvas jackets are a happy medium. They strike a balance between the advantage of canvassing and stitching in the crucial areas of the chest and shoulders.
Advantages:
A balanced compromise between quality and cost
Natural position in the chest
Better air circulation
More durable than fused
A good choice for most MTMs
Limitations:
The lower part of the jacket may seem stiffer than the upper part
Not as plastic as full Canvas
Full Canvas - A Full Canvas jacket has few to no heat-bonded elements, relying entirely on stitching—often by hand—to form the structure of the garment. It’s an incredibly high-skill and labour-intensive process, with a price tag to match.
Advantages:
The best fit to the body - the design "lives" with the customer
Maximum breathability and natural fit
Luxurious fabric movement effect
Longevity - the jacket ages, it does not wear out
Perfect for demanding premium customers
Limitations:
The highest cost of production
Longer lead time
Requires greater precision in sewing and experience in production
Sartoriale - finishing in the spirit of traditional craftsmanship
Beyond the construction itself, the finishing touches are also important. SARTORIALE stands for handcrafted details, often available in full canvas construction or as an additional option for high-end MTM.
Sartorial elements may include:
Manual stitching (AMF)
Hand-finished barchetta breastplate
Hand-finished sleeve linings and jacket bottom
Hand-sewn collar
All buttonholes are hand-sewn
L’asola lucida – a shiny silk buttonhole in a jacket lapel – an artistic expression of the craftsman’s skill
Advantages:
Exclusive look and luxurious details
Each piece is unique
Perfect for the MTM bespoke look collection
Limitations:
Higher cost
Extended sewing process
It requires a client who understands and appreciates the difference